Bakuchiol

Q: Why does bakuchiol sometimes cause a reaction similar to vitamin C?

Whether it is the bakuchiol, vitamin C, or the combination is not entirely clear. What we know is that customers who work through the initial adjustment typically see significant skin improvements. Start with lower concentrations and build up gradually.

Q: Can I use bakuchiol in the morning?

Yes. Unlike retinol, bakuchiol is photostable and does not increase photosensitivity. It is safe for daytime use — just always follow with sunscreen.

Quick Reference

INCI Name: Bakuchiol

CAS Number: 10309-37-2

Common Names: Bakuchiol, "natural retinol alternative," babchi extract

Category: Meroterpene, functional retinoid analogue, antioxidant

Source: Natural - extracted from the seeds of Psoralea corylifolia (babchi plant) using thin layer chromatography

Nubeean Concentrations: 0.5%, 1%, 2%, 4% (higher concentrations for experienced users)

Carrier System: Olive squalane (combined with THD-C in our formulations)

Skin Types: All skin types, particularly suited to sensitive skin, mature skin and those who cannot tolerate retinoids

Cautions: Higher concentrations may cause skin renewal reactions similar to THD-C, particularly in sun-damaged areas. Start with lower concentrations.

What It Is

Bakuchiol is a meroterpene phenol - a natural compound extracted from the seeds of Psoralea corylifolia, a plant used in traditional Ayurvedic and Chinese medicine. Despite having no structural resemblance to retinol, bakuchiol demonstrates remarkably similar effects on gene expression in skin cells, earning it the reputation as a "natural retinol alternative."

The compound has a light yellow to golden colour with minimal odour, making it easy to incorporate into formulations. It's oil-soluble and photostable, meaning it can be safely used during the day - a significant advantage over retinol which degrades in light and increases photosensitivity.

What makes bakuchiol interesting is that it appears to achieve retinoid-like results through its own distinct mechanisms rather than by mimicking retinol directly. It regulates the same genes involved in collagen production and extracellular matrix maintenance, but it also brings unique antioxidant properties that retinol lacks entirely. This makes bakuchiol not just a substitute for those who can't use retinoids, but a valuable ingredient in its own right.

How It Works

Retinoid receptor-independent activity. Unlike retinol which must be converted to retinoic acid and bind to retinoic acid receptors (RARs) to exert its effects, bakuchiol appears to modulate the same downstream genes through different pathways. Gene expression studies show bakuchiol upregulates collagen types I, III and IV - the same genes retinol affects - without requiring RAR binding.

Collagen synthesis stimulation. Bakuchiol increases expression of collagen genes in dermal fibroblasts, the cells responsible for producing the structural proteins that keep skin firm and resilient. It also increases tissue inhibitors of metalloproteinases (TIMP-1 and TIMP-2), which help protect newly synthesised collagen from breakdown.

MMP inhibition. Like THD-C, bakuchiol inhibits matrix metalloproteinases — particularly MMP-1 (collagenase) - that break down collagen in the dermis. This dual action of stimulating new collagen while protecting existing collagen is key to its anti-aging effects.

Antioxidant activity. Bakuchiol possesses significant antioxidant properties that retinol does not share. It scavenges free radicals including hydroxyl radicals, chlorinated peroxyl radicals and lipid peroxyl radicals. This antioxidant capacity provides additional protection against UV-induced oxidative damage.

Anti-inflammatory effects. Research shows bakuchiol decreases inflammatory mediators including prostaglandin E2 (PGE2) and macrophage migration inhibitory factor (MIF). This anti-inflammatory action may explain why bakuchiol is better tolerated than retinol, which often causes inflammation-related irritation.

Epidermal regeneration. In wound healing models, bakuchiol accelerates epidermal regeneration more effectively than retinol - suggesting it supports skin barrier repair and turnover.

Benefits

Primary Benefits

Bakuchiol provides retinol-like anti-aging effects - improvements in fine lines, wrinkles, pigmentation, elasticity and firmness - without the irritation, photosensitivity and peeling that make retinoids difficult for many people to tolerate. Clinical studies show comparable efficacy to 0.5% retinol after 12 weeks of use, with significantly better tolerability.

Secondary Benefits

The antioxidant activity of bakuchiol provides photoprotection that retinol cannot. It works synergistically with other antioxidants, enhancing the overall protective capacity of formulations. Bakuchiol is also photostable, so it can be used during the day without concerns about degradation or increased sun sensitivity.

Skin Concerns Addressed

Bakuchiol addresses the classic signs of photoaging including fine lines, wrinkles, uneven pigmentation and loss of firmness. It can also help with acne - early research suggests antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory effects that complement its skin renewal properties. For those with post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation from acne, bakuchiol offers a gentler alternative to retinoids for promoting cell turnover and fading marks.

The Honest View on "Natural Retinol"

Bakuchiol is often marketed as a "natural retinol alternative" and this comparison, while useful, can be misleading.

What's accurate: Bakuchiol modulates similar genes to retinol and produces similar clinical outcomes (reduced wrinkles, improved firmness, more even skin tone) in well-designed studies. It's gentler, more stable and safer during pregnancy (though data is limited).

What's oversimplified: Bakuchiol is not retinol and doesn't work the same way biochemically. If you specifically need the retinoic acid receptor-mediated effects of prescription tretinoin - for example, if you're treating persistent acne or significant photoaging under dermatologist supervision - bakuchiol is not an equivalent substitute.

Our view: Bakuchiol has genuine, evidence-based benefits that stand on their own merit. It's particularly valuable for people who cannot tolerate retinoids or want to avoid them during pregnancy. But if you want the proven benefits of retinoic acid, prescription tretinoin remains the gold standard. Bakuchiol and retinoids can even be used together - research shows bakuchiol enhances and stabilises retinol's effects.

Who Benefits Most

Sensitive or reactive skin. If you've tried retinol and experienced persistent redness, peeling, dryness or irritation that didn't resolve with gradual introduction, bakuchiol offers a gentler path to similar results.

Pregnancy and breastfeeding. Retinoids are contraindicated during pregnancy due to teratogenicity concerns. While bakuchiol doesn't have extensive pregnancy safety data, it works through different mechanisms and is considered lower risk. Consult your healthcare provider, but bakuchiol is generally viewed as a safer option for those who are pregnant, nursing or trying to conceive.

Daytime anti-aging. Because bakuchiol is photostable and doesn't increase photosensitivity, it's ideal for morning routines. You can use it under sunscreen for both treatment and protection.

Those combining with vitamin C. Bakuchiol pairs exceptionally well with THD-C, which is why we offer combination products. Both ingredients support collagen and address pigmentation through complementary mechanisms.

Retinol users seeking enhancement. Bakuchiol can be used alongside retinol to enhance results and potentially improve tolerability. The antioxidant properties help stabilise retinol and may reduce irritation.

How We Use It

Products Containing Bakuchiol

Sensitive C Serum PLUS Concentration: 0.5% bakuchiol + 10% THD-C Key Ingredients: Olive squalane, tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, bakuchiol, mixed tocopherols Use: Gentle introduction to bakuchiol combined with vitamin C, fragrance-free, suitable for sensitive skin

Vitamin C 20% + 1% Bakuchiol High Strength Serum Concentration: 1% bakuchiol + 20% THD-C Key Ingredients: Olive squalane, tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, bakuchiol, mixed tocopherols, steam distilled lemon oil (fragrance-free option available) Use: Combined anti-aging benefits for established skincare users

Vitamin C 30% + 1% Bakuchiol Professional Strength Concentration: 1% bakuchiol + 30% THD-C Key Ingredients: Olive squalane, tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, bakuchiol, mixed tocopherols, steam distilled lemon oil (fragrance-free option available) Use: Maximum strength for experienced users targeting significant photoaging

Coming Soon: 2% and 4% Bakuchiol + Vitamin C formulations Higher bakuchiol concentrations for experienced users who want more intensive treatment. These will be available in combination with 20% and 30% Vitamin C.

Using Our Bakuchiol Products

Our bakuchiol products are combined with THD-C in an olive squalane base, designed to be the final step in your skincare routine. Apply after water-based serums have absorbed.

The combination of bakuchiol and vitamin C is intentional - research shows they work synergistically. Bakuchiol's antioxidant properties help stabilise vitamin C, while both ingredients support collagen production through complementary pathways.

Morning or evening use is fine, as bakuchiol is photostable. If you're using other actives (like our copper peptide serums), apply the water-based products first, then finish with the bakuchiol + vitamin C oil.

The Formulation Story

We don't sell bakuchiol as a standalone product. The research showing synergy between bakuchiol and vitamin C convinced us that combining them makes more sense than offering them separately.

Our bakuchiol is extracted from Psoralea corylifolia seeds (yielding 99%+ purity). The light golden colour and minimal odour make it ideal for formulations - it integrates seamlessly without affecting the final product's appearance or scent.

We started with 0.5% bakuchiol in our Sensitive C PLUS formula - the lower end of the recommended 0.25-2% range - because we'd observed that both THD-C and bakuchiol could cause skin renewal reactions in sun-damaged areas. We wanted to give customers a gentle entry point.

What we've observed mirrors what people report on skincare forums: some users experience a reaction to bakuchiol products that looks remarkably similar to the response we see with high-concentration THD-C. Redness, small papules in sun-damaged areas, mild peeling that resolves to smoother skin. Whether this is the bakuchiol, the vitamin C, or the combination triggering this response isn't entirely clear - but customers who work through the initial adjustment consistently report significant improvements afterward.

We now offer progressively higher concentrations (1%, with 2% and 4% coming soon) for experienced users who've built up tolerance and want more intensive treatment.

Usage Guidelines

Starting Out

Begin with our Sensitive C Serum PLUS (0.5% bakuchiol + 10% THD-C). Use once daily for the first two weeks, monitoring your skin's response. Most people experience no adjustment period at this concentration.

Building Up

After 2-4 weeks without irritation, you can increase to the 1% bakuchiol formulations. Apply once daily, or every other day if you notice any sensitivity.

Higher Concentrations

2% and 4% bakuchiol concentrations are reserved for experienced users who have successfully used lower strengths without issues. As with high-concentration THD-C, these may trigger more significant skin renewal responses, particularly in sun-damaged areas.

Application

Apply 3-4 drops to clean, dry skin after water-based serums have absorbed. Gently press and smooth over face and neck. Follow with sunscreen in the morning.

Expected Timeframe

Improvements in skin texture and tone may be visible within 4-6 weeks. More significant changes in fine lines, firmness and pigmentation typically require 12 weeks of consistent use - this matches the timeframe used in clinical studies comparing bakuchiol to retinol.

Contraindications and Cautions

Patch test first, particularly if you have reactive skin or are moving to higher concentrations. Apply a small amount to your inner arm and wait 24 hours before using on your face.

Initial adjustment period. Some people experience temporary redness, mild peeling or small papules, particularly in sun-damaged areas. This typically resolves within the first few weeks. Reduce frequency if irritation is uncomfortable.

Sun protection. While bakuchiol doesn't cause photosensitivity, protecting your skin from UV damage is always important when targeting signs of aging. Use sunscreen daily.

Pregnancy and breastfeeding. Bakuchiol is generally considered a safer alternative to retinoids during pregnancy, but comprehensive safety data is lacking. Consult your healthcare provider if you have concerns.

Not a retinoid substitute for medical conditions. If you're using prescription tretinoin for acne, keratosis pilaris or other conditions under dermatologist supervision, bakuchiol is not an equivalent substitute. Discuss with your healthcare provider before switching.

Research and Evidence

A randomised, double-blind study comparing 0.5% bakuchiol cream (twice daily) to 0.5% retinol cream (daily) found both compounds significantly decreased wrinkle surface area and hyperpigmentation after 12 weeks, with no statistical difference between them. Importantly, retinol users reported more scaling and stinging than bakuchiol users.

Gene expression studies confirm that bakuchiol modulates the same collagen-related genes as retinol, including upregulation of types I, III and IV collagen. Additional research demonstrates bakuchiol's superior antioxidant activity compared to retinol, explaining its better tolerability profile.

The synergy between bakuchiol and vitamin C derivatives has been documented, with combination formulations showing enhanced efficacy for both collagen production and photoprotection.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is bakuchiol really as effective as retinol? Clinical studies show comparable results for wrinkles and pigmentation after 12 weeks of use. However, bakuchiol works through different mechanisms and may not replicate all of retinol's effects. For significant concerns, prescription tretinoin remains the gold standard - but for general anti-aging, bakuchiol delivers meaningful results with better tolerability.

Can I use bakuchiol with retinol? Yes. Research shows bakuchiol can enhance retinol's effects while potentially improving tolerability. If you're using prescription retinoids, introduce bakuchiol gradually and monitor for irritation.

Is bakuchiol safe during pregnancy? Bakuchiol is generally considered lower risk than retinoids during pregnancy because it doesn't work through retinoic acid receptors. However, comprehensive pregnancy safety data doesn't exist. Consult your healthcare provider for personalised advice.

Why does bakuchiol sometimes cause a reaction similar to vitamin C? We've observed this too, and so have many people on skincare forums. Whether it's the bakuchiol, vitamin C, or the combination isn't entirely clear. What we know is that customers who work through the initial adjustment typically see significant skin improvements. Start with lower concentrations and build up gradually.

What concentration should I use? Start with 0.5% (Sensitive C PLUS). After 2-4 weeks without issues, you can move to 1%. Higher concentrations (2-4%) are for experienced users who've built tolerance.

Can I use bakuchiol in the morning? Yes. Unlike retinol, bakuchiol is photostable and doesn't increase photosensitivity. It's safe for daytime use.

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Vitamin C + Bakuchiol: The Synergy Science

Shop Bakuchiol Products

Vitamin C + Bakuchiol Collection

Australian made | Small batch | Clean formulation | Fragrance-free