Salicylic Acid

What It Is

Salicylic acid is a beta-hydroxy acid (BHA) originally derived from willow bark, though now commonly synthesised for cosmetic use. Unlike alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) such as glycolic and lactic acid which are water-soluble, salicylic acid is lipophilic—meaning it dissolves in oil rather than water.

This oil-solubility is what makes salicylic acid unique among hydroxy acids. It can penetrate into the sebaceous (oil) gland and hair follicle rather than working only on the skin's surface, making it particularly effective for concerns originating within the pore.

Chemically, salicylic acid is closely related to aspirin (acetylsalicylic acid) and shares its anti-inflammatory properties - a characteristic often overlooked in discussions of this ingredient.

How It Works

Keratolytic action. It breaks down desmosomes - the protein structures that hold dead skin cells together in the stratum corneum. This allows accumulated dead cells to shed more easily, promoting smoother texture and clearer pores.

Comedolytic effect. By dissolving the sebum and cellular debris within hair follicles, salicylic acid helps prevent and clear blockages that lead to comedones (blackheads and whiteheads), congestion and follicular hyperkeratosis.

Anti-inflammatory properties. Salicylic acid inhibits prostaglandin synthesis, reducing inflammation in a similar manner to aspirin. This makes it soothing for inflamed skin conditions, not just acne but also general skin irritation and redness.

Cell turnover normalisation. For skin with abnormal keratinisation patterns - whether from sun damage, genetic conditions like ichthyosis vulgaris, or age-related changes -salicylic acid helps restore more normal shedding cycles.

The effectiveness of these mechanisms depends significantly on formulation. In low-pH aqueous solutions, the acidic environment causes additional non-specific protein damage that can overwhelm the anti-inflammatory benefits. In anhydrous (oil-based) formulations, the controlled release allows salicylic acid's inherent properties to express without pH-driven irritation.

Benefits

Primary Benefits

• Exfoliates dead skin cells without physical abrasion.
• Clears and prevents blocked pores and congestion.
• Reduces inflammation and redness.
• Smooths rough, uneven texture.
• Helps control sebaceous hyperplasia.
• Normalises abnormal keratinisation patterns.

Secondary Benefits

Improves penetration of other active ingredients by removing dead cell buildup. May help reduce appearance of fine lines through improved cell turnover. Supports management of keratosis pilaris and similar conditions. Assists with ingrown hair prevention.

Skin Concerns Addressed

• Acne and breakouts.
• Congested, clogged pores.
• Blackheads and whiteheads.
• Rough, bumpy texture.
• Sun-damaged skin with accumulated 'weeds'.
• Ichthyosis vulgaris and keratinisation disorders.
• Sebaceous hyperplasia.
• Dull, lacklustre complexion.
• Keratosis pilaris.

Formulation Matters

How salicylic acid is formulated dramatically affects both efficacy and tolerability.

Water-Based Formulations (Traditional)

Most commercial salicylic acid products are water-based, formulated at low pH (typically 2-3 the same pH as undiluted lemon juice) to ensure the acid remains in its active form. This approach delivers immediate, aggressive action and pH-driven protein denaturation (non-specific). Significant irritation potential and barrier disruption are common. Anti-inflammatory benefits are often masked by irritation.

Anhydrous (Oil-Based) Formulations

When dissolved in an oil base, salicylic acid behaves differently. pH is an aqueous concept- no acidic assault occurs. There's controlled, sustained release as the active partitions into skin. Anti-inflammatory properties can fully express. The barrier remains intact. Suitable for sensitive and compromised skin, these formulations can be used consistently over time at higher concentrations.

This is why Nubeean Noosa formulates salicylic acid in organic castor oil rather than an aqueous base - to deliver the keratolytic and anti-inflammatory benefits without the collateral damage of pH-driven irritation.

Want to understand the chemistry in more detail? Read → Salicylic Acid: It's Not Just for Acne | Nubeean Noosa

Who Benefits Most

Mature skin. Age-related changes in cell turnover lead to accumulated dead cells, rough texture and those small growths that multiply over time. Salicylic acid helps keep this 'overgrowth' under control.

Sun-damaged skin. UV exposure causes lasting changes to how skin keratinises. Gentle, consistent exfoliation helps promote healthier cell turnover patterns.

Sensitive skin. When formulated in an oil base, even high-concentration salicylic acid becomes tolerable for reactive skin types that cannot use traditional acid peels.

Dry skin and ichthyosis vulgaris. Counterintuitively, exfoliation benefits dry skin by removing the dead cell layer that prevents moisturisers from penetrating. For genetic keratinisation disorders, this is particularly important.

Fitzpatrick types 1-2 with sun damage. Fair skin with UV exposure history often needs cell turnover support but can't tolerate harsh treatments—oil-based salicylic acid provides a solution.

Acne-prone skin of all ages. While commonly associated with teenage acne, adult acne and hormonal breakouts also respond well to salicylic acid's pore-clearing action.

How We Use It

Nubeean Products Containing Salicylic Acid

→ 10% Salicylic Acid Serum - Propylene Glycol Free | Nubeean Noosa
Concentration: 10%
Ingredients: Organic castor oil, salicylic acid
Use: Targeted treatment for stubborn concerns, sebaceous hyperplasia, areas needing intensive cell turnover support

→ 2% Salicylic Acid High Strength Formula – Nubeean Noosa
Concentration: 2%
Ingredients: Fractionated coconut oil, organic castor oil, olive squalane, salicylic acid, mixed tocopherols
Use: Oil cleanser or leave-on oil-based moisturiser for daily maintenance

→ 1% Salicylic Acid: Dry Skin Formulation – Nubeean Noosa
Concentration: 1%
Ingredients: Fractionated coconut oil, organic castor oil, olive squalane, salicylic acid, mixed tocopherols
Use: Gentle oil cleanser or leave-on moisturiser, ideal for sensitive skin or those new to salicylic acid

→ Skin & Scalp Detox Oil Cleanser – Nubeean Noosa
Concentration: 2% salicylic acid
Ingredients: Fractionated coconut oil, organic blackseed oil, organic castor oil, olive squalane, salicylic acid, kunzea essential oil, roman chamomile essential oil, german chamomile essential oil, mixed tocopherols
Use: Scalp treatment for buildup, flakiness and congestion; can also be used on body

→ The Beard Oil – Nubeean Noosa
Concentration: 1% salicylic acid
Ingredients: Similar base formula to 1% and 2% products with essential oils
Use: Beard conditioning with added benefit of preventing ingrown hairs and follicular congestion

Using Our Salicylic Acid Products

The 1% and 2% formulations are designed to be versatile. Use them as an oil cleanser -massage into dry skin to dissolve makeup, sunscreen and daily grime, then remove with a warm cloth. Or use them as a leave-on oil-based moisturiser - apply after cleansing and leave on overnight for continuous gentle exfoliation and hydration.

This dual-purpose approach means you're getting the benefits of salicylic acid whether you rinse it off or leave it on.

Interested in oil cleansing with salicylic acid? Read → Salicylic Acid Cleanser: Why Oil-Based Works Better | Nubeean Noosa

A Note on Fragrance (Or Lack Thereof)

Our salicylic acid products are completely fragrance-free. The formulations without essential oils include 1%, 2% and 10% salicylic acid products - have a subtle natural odour from the salicylic acid and carrier oils themselves. We haven't attempted to mask it.

This is deliberate.

We formulate with 'best for skin' and 'best for health' as the primary consideration, not sensory appeal. Adding fragrance - even natural fragrance - serves no skincare function and can be irritating, particularly for the sensitive skin types our products are designed for.

What to expect: The natural scent is not unpleasant, but it's also not the perfumed experience most people associate with skincare. If you're accustomed to fragranced products, it may seem unusual at first. Some new customers contact us asking if the product has gone off - it hasn't. This is simply what salicylic acid and plant oils smell like without anything added to disguise them.

Once people understand this, they're completely fine with it. Most become repeat customers who appreciate that we haven't compromised the formulation for the sake of a pretty scent.

The Formulation Story

Fully solubilising salicylic acid in an oil base without using synthetic solvents or ingredients that compromise skin health took over a year of experimentation.

Most commercial salicylic acid products rely on propylene glycol, alcohol or other synthetic solvents to dissolve the active ingredient. These work well chemically but aren't ideal for skin - particularly sensitive, mature or barrier-compromised skin. They can be drying, irritating and counterproductive to the goals of the formulation.

We wanted the benefits of high-strength salicylic acid delivered in a way that actually supports skin health. That meant finding carrier oils that could fully dissolve the salicylic acid, remain stable over time and provide their own skin benefits.

The result is a range of products where every ingredient earns its place. No synthetic solvents. No fragrance masking. No fillers. Just effective concentrations of salicylic acid in nourishing plant oils, formulated to work with your skin rather than against it.

Why this matters: No propylene glycol or synthetic solvents. No added fragrance (natural or synthetic). No emulsifiers that can compromise skin barrier. No unnecessary ingredients. Stable formulation without preservatives (anhydrous systems don't support microbial growth). Every ingredient serves a purpose.

Usage Guidelines

For 10% Salicylic Acid (targeted treatment):
Apply a thin layer to specific areas of concern. Use nightly for stubborn issues like sebaceous hyperplasia. Can be used on face or body. Results for specific concerns may take 8-12 weeks of consistent use.

For 1% and 2% Salicylic Acid (daily use):
As an oil cleanser: Massage into dry skin, then remove with a warm cloth.
As a leave-on moisturiser: Apply after cleansing and leave overnight.
Suitable for daily use on face. Expect texture improvements within 4-6 weeks.

For Skin & Scalp Detox Oil:
Massage into scalp before washing, leave 10-20 minutes, then shampoo. Can be left on overnight for intensive treatment. Also suitable for body use on congested areas.

General guidance:
Start with lower concentrations (1% or 2%) if new to salicylic acid. No tingling, burning or visible peeling expected - this is normal for oil-based formulations. The absence of sensation doesn't mean it's not working. Results build gradually with consistent use.

Avoid: Broken skin, active eczema flares, immediately after aggressive treatments (professional peels, microneedling).

Contraindications and Cautions

Aspirin allergy: Salicylic acid is chemically related to aspirin. Those with aspirin sensitivity should patch test or avoid.

Pregnancy: While topical absorption is limited, high-concentration salicylic acid is generally avoided during pregnancy.

Broken or compromised skin: Do not apply to open wounds, active eczema or severely irritated areas.

Concurrent strong actives: While oil-based salicylic acid is gentle, exercise caution when combining with other exfoliating acids or retinoids until skin tolerance is established.

Research and Evidence

Salicylic acid is one of the most well-studied ingredients in dermatology, with decades of clinical use supporting its efficacy for acne vulgaris (numerous clinical trials), hyperkeratotic conditions, photoaged skin and comedonal and inflammatory acne.

Its keratolytic and anti-inflammatory mechanisms are well-established in dermatological literature. The comparative benefits of oil-based versus aqueous delivery systems represent a more recent area of formulation science, with anhydrous formulations gaining recognition for improved tolerability in sensitive skin populations.

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Salicylic Acid: It's Not Just for Acne | Nubeean Noosa 

Clean Salicylic Acid Serums | No Propylene Glycol | Nubeean Noosa

Australian made | Small batch | Clean formulation | Fragrance-free