Sodium Hyaluronate (Hyaluronic Acid)

Quick Reference

INCI Name: Sodium Hyaluronate

Common Names: Hyaluronic acid, HA, hyaluronan, sodium hyaluronate

Category: Humectant, skin-identical hydrator

Source: Biotechnology (bacterial fermentation) - not animal-derived

Nubeean Concentrations: 0.5% high molecular weight

Skin Types: All skin types, particularly dehydrated, mature and sensitive skin

Cautions: Generally very well tolerated. Rare sensitivity possible. Apply to damp skin for best results.

What It Is

Sodium hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid, a substance your body produces naturally. It's found throughout your connective tissues, with the highest concentrations in skin, eyes and joints. In skin alone, roughly half of your body's total hyaluronic acid resides in the dermis and epidermis, where it plays a critical role in maintaining hydration and structural integrity.

What makes hyaluronic acid remarkable is its water-binding capacity. A single gram can hold up to six litres of water - though in practical skincare terms, this translates to exceptional hydration rather than literal water storage. As we age, our natural hyaluronic acid production declines significantly. By age 50, you've lost roughly half of what you had in your twenties. This loss contributes to the visible signs of ageing: reduced plumpness, fine lines from dehydration, and skin that doesn't bounce back the way it once did.

The sodium hyaluronate used in cosmetics today is produced through bacterial fermentation, avoiding the ethical concerns of earlier animal-derived sources. This biotechnology approach also allows for precise control over molecular weight, which significantly affects how the ingredient performs on skin.

How It Works

Humectant action. Sodium hyaluronate draws water from two sources: the atmosphere (when humidity allows) and the deeper layers of your skin. It then holds this moisture at the skin's surface, creating a hydrated environment that supports barrier function and gives skin a plumper, smoother appearance.

Molecular weight matters. Hyaluronic acid comes in different sizes, measured in Daltons (Da). High molecular weight HA (over 1 million Da) forms a breathable film on the skin's surface, providing immediate hydration and reducing transepidermal water loss. It cannot penetrate the stratum corneum due to its size, but this isn't a limitation - it's a feature. The surface film creates a moisture reservoir that keeps skin hydrated throughout the day.

Low molecular weight HA (under 50,000 Da) can penetrate deeper into the epidermis, potentially reaching the upper dermis. While this sounds appealing, research suggests very low molecular weight HA may trigger inflammatory responses in some individuals. There's ongoing debate in the cosmetic chemistry community about the optimal approach.

Skin barrier support. By maintaining hydration at the skin's surface, sodium hyaluronate supports the lipid barrier's function. Dehydrated skin has a compromised barrier; well-hydrated skin is more resilient, better able to protect against environmental stressors, and more receptive to other active ingredients.

Synergy with other humectants. Sodium hyaluronate works beautifully alongside other humectants like glycerin, trehalose and panthenol. Each has slightly different water-binding properties and together they create a more robust hydration system than any single ingredient alone.

Benefits

Primary Benefits

Intense hydration is the headline benefit. Sodium hyaluronate delivers immediate and lasting moisture to the skin's surface, visibly plumping fine dehydration lines and giving skin a healthy, dewy appearance. This isn't just cosmetic - proper hydration supports every aspect of skin function.

Surface smoothing follows naturally from hydration. When the spaces between skin cells are filled with moisture-bound hyaluronic acid, skin texture appears more refined and even. Light reflects more uniformly, contributing to that sought-after "glow."

Secondary Benefits

Barrier reinforcement occurs when the skin's surface is properly hydrated. The lipid barrier functions optimally in a hydrated environment, reducing sensitivity and improving resilience against environmental stressors.

Enhanced penetration of other actives is another advantage. Well-hydrated skin is more permeable to beneficial ingredients. Using sodium hyaluronate as part of your routine can improve the efficacy of your other products.

Soothing properties make this ingredient suitable even for reactive skin. Unlike many active ingredients, sodium hyaluronate rarely causes irritation and can actually calm skin that's been sensitised by other treatments.

Skin Concerns Addressed

Dehydration responds beautifully to sodium hyaluronate - it directly addresses the core issue of insufficient water in the upper skin layers. Fine lines caused by dehydration (as opposed to deeper wrinkles from collagen loss) can appear significantly reduced with consistent use. Dullness often improves as hydrated skin reflects light more evenly. Sensitivity may decrease as the barrier becomes more robust.

Post-procedure skin benefits from the gentle, hydrating support during recovery.

Formulation Matters

Not all hyaluronic acid products are created equal, and molecular weight is the key differentiator.

The multi-weight trend. Many products now boast "multi-molecular weight" hyaluronic acid, combining high, medium and low molecular weights. The marketing suggests this delivers hydration at "every level" of the skin. The reality is more nuanced. While medium molecular weight HA (100,000–300,000 Da) offers a reasonable balance of surface hydration and some penetration, very low molecular weight HA remains controversial.

Our approach. We use high molecular weight sodium hyaluronate (over 1 million Da) at 0.5%. This concentration provides excellent surface hydration without the potential inflammatory concerns of very low molecular weight variants. We believe in the "film-forming" benefit of high molecular weight HA — it creates a moisture-locking layer that protects against transepidermal water loss throughout the day.

Concentration considerations. More isn't always better with hyaluronic acid. At very high concentrations (above 2%), products can feel tacky or pill under other products. At 0.5%, you get effective hydration with elegant skin feel.

The damp skin principle. Sodium hyaluronate works best when applied to damp skin. It needs water to bind to — if you apply it to dry skin in a dry environment, it may actually draw moisture from deeper skin layers. Misting your face before application, or applying immediately after cleansing while skin is still damp, maximises the benefit.

Who Benefits Most

Dehydrated skin regardless of skin type - sees the most immediate improvement. Dehydration is a condition, not a skin type, and even oily skin can be dehydrated. Sodium hyaluronate addresses water content without adding oil.

Mature skin benefits from both the immediate plumping effect and the ongoing hydration support. As natural HA production declines with age, topical application helps maintain the hydrated environment skin needs to function well.

Sensitive skin tolerates sodium hyaluronate exceptionally well. It's one of the few ingredients that's both effective and genuinely gentle, making it suitable for reactive skin types and those recovering from procedures or irritating treatments.

Oily and acne-prone skin can use sodium hyaluronate without concern about breakouts. It's non-comedogenic and provides hydration without the heaviness of occlusive ingredients. Many people with oily skin avoid moisturisers, leading to dehydration - HA offers a lightweight solution.

All skin types in dry climates or air-conditioned environments benefit from the barrier support and moisture retention sodium hyaluronate provides.

How We Use It

Products Containing Sodium Hyaluronate

Hydrate + Protect | Good Morning Skin Shield  0.5% high molecular weight sodium hyaluronate combined with niacinamide, trehalose, ectoine, panthenol and acetyl zingerone. A morning hydration spray that preps skin for the day while providing antioxidant protection. [LINK: Skin Shield Product Page]

Copper Peptide | Skin 0.5%  Contains 0.5% sodium hyaluronate alongside GHK-Cu, trehalose and ectoine. Evening serum for regeneration and repair. [LINK: 0.5% GHK-Cu Product Page]

Copper Peptide | Skin 1%  Contains 0.5% sodium hyaluronate alongside GHK-Cu, trehalose and ectoine. Higher strength evening serum for experienced users. [LINK: 1% GHK-Cu Product Page]

Using Our Sodium Hyaluronate Products

For maximum benefit, apply to damp skin. After cleansing, while your face is still slightly wet, spray or apply your sodium hyaluronate product. This gives the HA water to bind to immediately. Follow with any additional serums, then seal with a moisturiser or facial oil if desired - this helps lock in the hydration.

In dry environments (air conditioning, heating, low humidity climates), the "sandwich" method works well: damp skin → HA product → facial mist → moisturiser. This ensures the HA has access to water and the moisture is sealed in.

A Note on Fragrance

All Nubeean Noosa products containing sodium hyaluronate are fragrance-free. Sodium hyaluronate itself has no discernible scent. Any subtle smell you detect will come from other ingredients in the formulation - typically a faint, clean, almost clinical note that dissipates quickly after application.

Usage Guidelines

Application method: Spray directly onto face or dispense onto fingertips and press gently into skin. Patting rather than rubbing helps the product absorb without disrupting the film-forming action.

Frequency: Daily use, morning and/or evening. Sodium hyaluronate is gentle enough for twice-daily application.

Best practices: Always apply to damp skin. Follow with additional products within a few minutes to seal in hydration. In very dry environments, layer a mist over your HA product before applying moisturiser.

What to avoid: Don't apply to completely dry skin in low humidity - the HA may draw moisture from your skin rather than the environment. Don't layer too many HA products at once (one is sufficient). Don't expect miracles from a single application - consistent use over weeks delivers the best results.

Expected timeframe: Immediate plumping and smoothing visible from first use. Cumulative hydration benefits build over 2–4 weeks of consistent use.

Contraindications and Cautions

Sodium hyaluronate is one of the most universally tolerated skincare ingredients. However, no ingredient suits everyone.

Rare sensitivity: A small number of people react to sodium hyaluronate, particularly low molecular weight versions. If you experience redness, itching or irritation, discontinue use.

Source considerations: Modern cosmetic-grade sodium hyaluronate is produced via bacterial fermentation and is vegan. 

Injection vs topical: This information relates to topical sodium hyaluronate only. Injectable hyaluronic acid (dermal fillers) is a medical procedure with different considerations - consult a qualified practitioner.

Drug interactions: None known for topical use.

Research and Evidence

Hyaluronic acid is one of the most extensively studied skincare ingredients. Research confirms its exceptional water-binding capacity and its role in maintaining skin hydration. Studies demonstrate that topical application of sodium hyaluronate improves skin hydration, reduces the appearance of fine lines, and supports barrier function.

The molecular weight debate continues in the literature. Some studies suggest low molecular weight HA penetrates more effectively; others raise concerns about potential pro-inflammatory effects. High molecular weight HA's surface hydration benefits are well-established and uncontroversial.

Clinical studies using 0.1–0.5% sodium hyaluronate show measurable improvements in skin hydration within days of beginning use, with continued improvement over several weeks.

Learn More

[LINK: The Science of Hydration — Blog Post]

[LINK: Humectants Explained — Blog Post]

Shop Products with Sodium Hyaluronate

Skin Hydration Booster: Hyaluronic Acid + Rose – Nubeean Noosa

Skin Hydration Booster: Hyaluronic Acid + Sandalwood – Nubeean Noosa

Copper Peptide | AHK-Cu Skin Serum | Nubeean Noosa

Australian made | Small batch | Clean formulation | Fragrance-free