Niacinamide (Vitamin B3)

In brief: Niacinamide is the skincare workhorse – a form of vitamin B3 with an unusually broad range of evidence-backed benefits. It strengthens the skin barrier, regulates sebum, reduces the appearance of pores, evens skin tone, and supports overall skin health. Unlike many actives, it's gentle enough for virtually everyone and plays well with almost everything. We use it in our morning hydration spray as part of a B-vitamin complex for daily skin nutrition.

Quick Reference

INCI Name: Niacinamide
Common Names: Niacinamide, nicotinamide, vitamin B3
Category: Vitamin, barrier support, sebum regulator
Source: Identical to natural form
Nubeean Concentration: 2-4%
Skin Types Suited To: All skin types
Cautions: Generally very well tolerated. Rare sensitivity in some individuals.

What It Is

Niacinamide is a water-soluble form of vitamin B3 (niacin). It's an essential nutrient – your body needs it but can't make it, so it must come from diet or topical application. In the body, niacinamide is a precursor to NAD+ and NADP+, coenzymes involved in hundreds of cellular processes including energy metabolism, DNA repair, and cell signalling.

What makes niacinamide remarkable in skincare is its versatility. Most active ingredients do one or two things well. Niacinamide does many things well, with robust research supporting benefits across multiple skin concerns. It's been studied extensively since the 1970s, with a substantial body of clinical evidence behind it.

The ingredient you'll find in quality skincare products is synthetically produced but chemically identical to the niacinamide found in foods like meat, fish, and grains. It's stable, cost-effective, and has an excellent safety profile – one of the few actives genuinely suitable for almost everyone.

How It Works

Barrier strengthening. Niacinamide increases the production of ceramides and other lipids in the stratum corneum. Ceramides are the "mortar" between skin cells – they hold the barrier together and prevent water loss. More ceramides means a stronger, more resilient barrier that holds moisture better and keeps irritants out.

Sebum regulation. Research has shown niacinamide can reduce sebum production without the drying effects of harsh treatments. The mechanism isn't fully understood, but studies demonstrate measurable reductions in sebum excretion with topical niacinamide use. This makes it valuable for oily and combination skin types.

Pigmentation management. Niacinamide inhibits the transfer of melanosomes (pigment-containing structures) from melanocytes to keratinocytes. It doesn't stop melanin production entirely but reduces how much pigment ends up visible in the outer skin layers. This helps with uneven skin tone, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, and general brightening.

Anti-inflammatory effects. Niacinamide has demonstrated anti-inflammatory properties, reducing redness and calming reactive skin. It can help reduce the inflammation associated with acne, rosacea, and general skin sensitivity.

Collagen support. Some research suggests niacinamide may stimulate collagen production and reduce the breakdown of existing collagen, though this evidence is less robust than for its other benefits.

Sun damage prevention and repair. Niacinamide has demonstrated photoprotective effects in research. It helps prevent the immunosuppression that UV exposure causes, supports DNA repair mechanisms, and may reduce the formation of UV-induced skin changes. Studies have shown niacinamide can reduce the development of new actinic keratoses (pre-cancerous sun spots) in high-risk individuals. While it's not a substitute for sunscreen, niacinamide provides an additional layer of defence against cumulative sun damage and supports the skin's ability to repair UV-induced harm.

Benefits

Primary Benefits

Niacinamide strengthens the skin barrier, which underpins almost everything else in skin health. A strong barrier means better hydration retention, reduced sensitivity, and improved resilience against environmental stressors. For oily skin types, sebum regulation helps manage shine without stripping the skin.

Secondary Benefits

An evening-out of skin tone and reduction in the appearance of hyperpigmentation develop with consistent use. Pore appearance may improve as sebum production normalises. Some users notice reduced redness and calmer skin overall, particularly those with reactive or rosacea-prone skin. Niacinamide also supports the skin's defences against sun damage, helping prevent UV-induced changes and supporting repair of existing photodamage.

Skin Concerns Addressed

Niacinamide is relevant for an unusually broad range of concerns: oily skin and enlarged pores, uneven skin tone and hyperpigmentation, compromised barrier function, dehydration, redness and sensitivity, sun damage and photodamage prevention, dullness, and signs of ageing. It's one of the few ingredients that genuinely works across skin types and concerns.

Who Benefits Most

Oily and combination skin. Sebum regulation helps manage shine and may reduce the appearance of enlarged pores over time.

Those with uneven skin tone. Niacinamide's ability to interrupt pigment transfer makes it valuable for hyperpigmentation, sun spots, and post-inflammatory marks.

Compromised or sensitive skin. Barrier strengthening and anti-inflammatory effects help rebuild resilience and reduce reactivity.

Acne-prone skin. The combination of sebum regulation, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier support addresses multiple factors in acne without irritation.

Everyone seeking general skin health. Niacinamide is genuinely useful as a daily maintenance ingredient for virtually all skin types.

Those with sun damage or high UV exposure. Niacinamide's photoprotective effects and support for DNA repair make it valuable for anyone concerned about cumulative sun damage – particularly relevant for Australian skin.

Formulation Matters

Concentration. Most research supporting niacinamide's benefits has used concentrations between 2-5%. Higher isn't necessarily better – concentrations above 5% don't consistently show improved results and may increase the (small) risk of irritation in sensitive individuals. We use 4%, which sits in the evidence-supported sweet spot.

pH considerations. Niacinamide is most stable and effective at pH 5-7. At very low pH (below 4), niacinamide can convert to niacin over time, which may cause flushing in some people. Our formulations target pH 5-5.5, which keeps niacinamide stable while supporting the skin's natural acid mantle.

The vitamin C question. You may have heard that niacinamide and vitamin C shouldn't be used together. This concern comes from old research on pure niacin (not niacinamide) and L-ascorbic acid under conditions not found in skincare products. Modern research and clinical experience suggest the combination is fine, particularly with stable vitamin C forms like THD ascorbate. We're comfortable with niacinamide in the morning followed by vitamin C.

How We Use It

Products Containing Niacinamide

[LINK: Hydrate + Protect | Skin Shield | AM product page] Hydrate + Protect | Skin Shield | AM contains 4% niacinamide as part of a B-vitamin complex alongside panthenol (B5). This provides daily skin nutrition and barrier support as part of your morning routine.

Using Our Niacinamide Products

Our Skin Shield spray is designed for morning use. Mist onto clean skin, allow to absorb, then follow with your oil-based products (like our THD-C vitamin C serum in squalane). The niacinamide works throughout the day to support barrier function and manage sebum.

A Note on Flushing

A small number of people experience mild flushing or tingling with niacinamide products. This is more common with higher concentrations or in products with very low pH. If you've experienced this before, our 4% concentration at pH 5-5.5 is less likely to cause issues than higher-strength or lower-pH formulations. The reaction is temporary and not harmful, but if it bothers you, niacinamide may not be the right ingredient for your skin.

Usage Guidelines

Application

Apply products containing niacinamide to clean skin. Our spray format makes application easy – mist, allow to absorb briefly, then continue with your routine.

Frequency

Niacinamide is gentle enough for twice-daily use, though once daily (morning) is sufficient for most people and fits naturally into an AM/PM routine that separates water-based and treatment products.

What to Expect

Barrier improvements can begin within a few weeks. Sebum regulation and pore appearance changes typically develop over 4-8 weeks. Pigmentation improvements require longer – often 8-12 weeks of consistent use. Niacinamide rewards patience and consistency.

Contraindications and Cautions

Niacinamide is one of the safest and most well-tolerated skincare actives available. Rare sensitivity reactions can occur, presenting as flushing, tingling, or mild irritation. If you experience persistent irritation, discontinue use.

Those with known sensitivity to niacinamide should avoid products containing it. If you're unsure, patch testing before full application is always an option.

Research and Evidence

Niacinamide has been extensively studied in dermatology, with research published in journals including the British Journal of Dermatology, International Journal of Cosmetic Science, and Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology. Clinical trials have demonstrated benefits for barrier function, sebum regulation, hyperpigmentation, and skin ageing.

It's one of the most evidence-supported ingredients in cosmetic skincare – the research base is robust and spans decades. This is why it's become such a staple ingredient: it genuinely works, for a wide range of concerns, with minimal downsides.

Frequently Asked Questions

What does niacinamide do for skin?
Niacinamide strengthens the skin barrier by boosting ceramide production, regulates sebum production, helps even skin tone by reducing pigment transfer, has anti-inflammatory effects, and supports overall skin health. It's one of the most versatile skincare actives available.

Can niacinamide be used with vitamin C?
Yes. The old advice to avoid combining them was based on research that doesn't apply to modern skincare formulations. Niacinamide and vitamin C – particularly stable forms like THD ascorbate – can be used together or in the same routine without issues.

What percentage of niacinamide is effective?
Research supports concentrations between 2-5% for most benefits. Higher concentrations don't consistently show better results and may increase the small risk of sensitivity. Our products use 4%, which is well within the evidence-supported range.

Is niacinamide suitable for sensitive skin?
Generally yes. Niacinamide is one of the gentlest actives available and actually helps strengthen sensitive skin over time. A small number of people are sensitive to niacinamide specifically, but this is uncommon.

How long before niacinamide shows results?
Barrier improvements may be noticeable within a few weeks. Sebum regulation and pore appearance changes typically develop over 4-8 weeks. Pigmentation improvements require longer, often 8-12 weeks of consistent use.