Panthenol (Vitamin B5)

Q: What is panthenol and what does it do?

Panthenol is provitamin B5. It penetrates skin and converts to pantothenic acid, which supports barrier function, hydration, and wound healing. It is a deeply hydrating, healing ingredient used in both skincare and medical wound care products.

In brief: Panthenol is the skincare form of vitamin B5 – a deeply hydrating, wound-healing ingredient that's been used in dermatology for decades. It penetrates the skin and converts to pantothenic acid, supporting barrier repair, moisture retention, and skin healing. Gentle enough for the most sensitive skin and effective enough to be used in medical wound care. We use it alongside niacinamide (B3) in our morning hydration spray for comprehensive B-vitamin skin nutrition.

Quick Reference

INCI Name: Panthenol
Common Names: Panthenol, provitamin B5, dexpanthenol
Category: Humectant, skin conditioning agent, wound healing
Source: Synthetic (identical to natural form)
Nubeean Concentration: 2-2.5%
Skin Types Suited To: All skin types, especially dry, sensitive, or compromised
Cautions: None known. Exceptionally well tolerated.

What It Is

Panthenol is the alcohol form of pantothenic acid (vitamin B5). When applied to skin, it penetrates readily and converts to pantothenic acid, which is a component of coenzyme A – a molecule involved in hundreds of metabolic processes including fatty acid synthesis, which is essential for healthy skin barrier function.

The ingredient has a long history in dermatology and wound care. Bepanthen, the well-known nappy rash and wound healing cream, is essentially panthenol in an ointment base. It's been used for decades to support skin healing, from minor burns and abrasions to post-procedure care. This medical heritage speaks to both its effectiveness and safety.

In skincare, panthenol is valued for its humectant properties (drawing moisture into the skin), its emollient effects (softening and smoothing), and its support for the skin's natural healing processes. It's one of those ingredients that does its job quietly and reliably without fanfare.

How It Works

Deep hydration. Panthenol is a highly effective humectant, binding water and drawing moisture into the skin. Unlike some humectants that sit on the surface, panthenol penetrates into the epidermis, providing hydration from within. Studies show it can improve skin hydration and reduce transepidermal water loss.

Barrier support. Once converted to pantothenic acid in the skin, it supports the synthesis of lipids that are essential for barrier function. A healthy lipid barrier keeps moisture in and irritants out. Panthenol helps rebuild this barrier when it's been compromised.

Wound healing. Research has demonstrated panthenol's ability to accelerate wound healing. It stimulates the proliferation of fibroblasts (the cells that produce collagen and repair tissue) and supports the migration of keratinocytes to close wounds. This is why it's used in medical wound care products.

Anti-inflammatory effects. Panthenol has mild anti-inflammatory properties, helping to calm irritated or reactive skin. It can reduce redness and soothe discomfort from minor skin damage or sensitivity.

Skin softening. Beyond hydration, panthenol improves skin texture by supporting the natural desquamation process (shedding of dead skin cells) and maintaining skin elasticity. The result is softer, smoother skin.

Benefits

Primary Benefits

Panthenol provides deep, lasting hydration that penetrates rather than just sitting on the surface. Its barrier-supporting properties help skin hold onto that moisture and resist irritation. For compromised or damaged skin, it actively supports the healing process.

Secondary Benefits

Improved skin texture and softness develop with consistent use. The anti-inflammatory effects help calm reactive skin. Panthenol also supports healthy nail and hair structure, which is why it appears in many hair care products.

Skin Concerns Addressed

Panthenol is particularly relevant for dry or dehydrated skin, compromised or damaged skin barrier, sensitive or reactive skin, post-procedure care, minor wounds and irritation, and rough or textured skin.

Who Benefits Most

Dry skin. Panthenol's humectant and emollient properties make it excellent for skin that struggles to stay hydrated.

Sensitive skin. Its gentle, soothing nature and support for barrier function make panthenol ideal for reactive or easily irritated skin types.

Compromised barrier. Whether from over-exfoliation, harsh products, environmental damage, or skin conditions, panthenol helps rebuild barrier function.

Post-treatment skin. After procedures, peels, or other treatments that stress the skin, panthenol supports healing and recovery.

Anyone seeking daily hydration. Panthenol is gentle and effective enough to be a daily staple in any routine.

Panthenol + Niacinamide: The B-Vitamin Partnership

We pair panthenol (B5) with niacinamide (B3) in our Skin Shield spray because they complement each other beautifully. Niacinamide boosts ceramide production and regulates sebum; panthenol provides deep hydration and healing support. Together, they offer comprehensive barrier support from multiple angles.

Both are water-soluble, stable, and compatible with virtually all other skincare ingredients. Both are gentle enough for sensitive skin yet effective enough to deliver real results. It's a partnership that makes scientific sense.

Formulation Notes

Panthenol is available in both liquid (D-panthenol) and powder (DL-panthenol) forms. Both convert to pantothenic acid in the skin. It's water-soluble, stable across a wide pH range, and compatible with most cosmetic ingredients. Effective concentrations in research typically range from 1-5%, with 2-2.5% being common in leave-on products.

One formulation note: powdered panthenol can be slow to dissolve at room temperature. Gentle warming helps it incorporate smoothly into water-based formulations.

How We Use It

Products Containing Panthenol

Hydrate + Protect | Good Morning Skin Shield contains 2.5% panthenol alongside niacinamide (B3), ectoine, trehalose, and acetyl zingerone. This provides B-vitamin nutrition and deep hydration as part of your morning routine.

Hydrating Postbiotic Toner - Organic Rose + 2% Niacinamide – Nubeean Noosa Contains 4% Panthenol

Using Our Panthenol Products

Our Skin Shield spray is designed for morning use. Mist onto clean skin and allow to absorb before following with your oil-based products. The panthenol begins working immediately, providing hydration and barrier support throughout the day.

Usage Guidelines

Application

Apply panthenol-containing products to clean skin. Works well both morning and evening.

Frequency

Panthenol is gentle enough for twice-daily use. No adjustment period needed.

What to Expect

Immediate hydration and skin softening. Barrier improvements and healing support develop with consistent use over days to weeks.

Contraindications and Cautions

Panthenol has an exceptional safety profile with no known contraindications for topical use. It's used in products for babies, in wound care, and in sensitive-area applications. Allergic reactions are extremely rare. It's one of the safest active ingredients in skincare.

Research and Evidence

Panthenol has been studied extensively, with research published in dermatological journals spanning decades. Studies have demonstrated its effects on skin hydration, barrier function, wound healing, and anti-inflammatory activity. Its use in medical wound care products reflects the robustness of the evidence supporting its healing properties.

This is an ingredient with genuine medical credibility, not just cosmetic marketing claims.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is panthenol and what does it do?
Panthenol is provitamin B5 – it penetrates skin and converts to pantothenic acid, which supports barrier function, hydration, and wound healing. It's a deeply hydrating, healing ingredient used in both skincare and medical wound care products.

Is panthenol the same as vitamin B5?
Panthenol is the provitamin form of B5. When applied to skin, it converts to pantothenic acid (the active form of vitamin B5). In skincare, "panthenol," "provitamin B5," and "vitamin B5" typically refer to the same ingredient.

Can panthenol be used on sensitive skin?
Absolutely. Panthenol is one of the gentlest skincare ingredients available and actually helps soothe sensitive skin. It's used in baby products and wound care specifically because of its excellent tolerability.

What's the difference between panthenol and niacinamide?
Both are B vitamins but work differently. Niacinamide (B3) boosts ceramide production, regulates sebum, and helps with pigmentation. Panthenol (B5) provides deep hydration, supports wound healing, and softens skin. They complement each other well and are often used together.

How long does panthenol take to work?
Hydration benefits are immediate. Barrier repair and healing support develop over days to weeks of consistent use.