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Olive Squalane
Quick Reference
INCI Name: Squalane
Common Names: Olive squalane, plant-derived squalane, vegetable squalane
Category: Emollient, occlusive, carrier oil
Source: Natural - derived from olive oil production byproducts, hydrogenated for stability
Origin: Product of France
Nubeean Products: Available as a standalone oil (50ml, 100ml, 200ml) and as the primary carrier in THD-C serums and multiple formulations
Skin Types: All skin types, including sensitive and acne-prone
Cautions: Extremely well-tolerated. Rare sensitivity possible.
What It Is
Squalane is a hydrogenated form of squalene - a lipid that occurs naturally in human sebum, comprising about 13% of your skin's natural oils. Your body produces squalene as part of cholesterol synthesis, and it serves as a crucial moisturising and protective component of your skin barrier. Unfortunately, squalene production declines significantly after your twenties, contributing to the increased dryness and loss of suppleness associated with aging.
Topical squalane supplements this declining natural production. Because it's a molecule your skin already produces, it's exceptionally well-tolerated and readily absorbed. It doesn't just sit on the surface - it integrates into your skin's lipid structure.
The hydrogenation process that converts squalene to squalane is essential for skincare use. Squalene is highly unstable and oxidises rapidly when exposed to air, making it impractical for products. Hydrogenation adds hydrogen atoms to stabilise the molecule, creating squalane - colourless, odourless, stable and every bit as effective as squalene but without the oxidation issues.
We use olive-derived squalane sourced from Sophim in France, extracted from the byproducts of olive oil production.
The Source Question: Shark vs Olive vs Sugarcane
Not all squalane is created equal, and the source matters - both ethically and functionally.
Shark-Derived Squalane
Historically, squalane was extracted from shark livers. Deep-sea sharks are particularly rich in squalene (up to 80% of their liver oil), which helps them maintain buoyancy in the depths. The cosmetics industry's demand for squalane contributed to devastating overfishing, with millions of sharks killed annually for their livers - often discarded after the liver was removed in a practice called "shark livering."
Shark-derived squalane is now banned in the European Union, but it's still used elsewhere, often without clear labelling. Beyond the ethical catastrophe, shark squalane can vary in quality and may contain impurities from the marine environment.
We do not use shark-derived squalane. When we know better, we should do better.
Sugarcane-Derived Squalane
Biofermented sugarcane squalane emerged as an alternative in the 2000s. Yeast is genetically modified to convert sugarcane sugars into squalene, which is then hydrogenated. This process is highly controlled, yielding consistent, high-purity squalane.
Sugarcane squalane is marketed heavily as the most sustainable option, and it does avoid the ethical issues of shark-derived sources. However, there are considerations: it involves GMO yeast, large-scale sugarcane farming (with associated land use impacts), and the fermentation process is energy-intensive.
Skin feel observation: We've used both olive and sugarcane squalane, and there's a noticeable difference. Sugarcane squalane feels "drier" on the skin - less emollient, less nourishing. This observation is shared by many formulators and users. While both are chemically "squalane," the trace compounds that survive processing differ between sources, and this appears to affect skin feel.
When we switched from sugarcane to olive squalane, we had to reformulate several products because the texture and absorption characteristics changed noticeably. This wasn't marketing - it was practical reality in the lab.
Olive-Derived Squalane
Olive squalane is extracted from the byproducts of olive oil production - specifically the "deodoriser distillate" left after olive oil is refined. This would otherwise be waste, making olive squalane a genuinely sustainable choice that doesn't require additional crops or resources.
The squalene is recovered from this distillate, purified and hydrogenated to create stable squalane. Because it comes from a traditional agricultural product with established production methods, olive squalane quality is generally consistent, though it can vary somewhat with olive harvest quality.
Why we choose olive squalane:
- Ethics. No animal harm, no contribution to shark population decline.
- Sustainability. Uses existing agricultural waste rather than requiring new resources.
- Skin feel. More emollient and nourishing than sugarcane squalane in our experience.
- Natural processing. No GMO organisms involved in production.
- Quality. Our supplier (Sophim, France) maintains rigorous standards.
Olive squalane is sufficient for our needs, effective for our customers, and aligned with our values. Why use anything else?
How It Works
Sebum integration. Squalane is a natural component of human sebum. When you apply it topically, it integrates seamlessly into your skin's existing lipid structure rather than forming a separate layer on top. This makes it exceptionally comfortable to wear - no greasy or suffocating feeling.
Barrier reinforcement. The stratum corneum (skin's outer layer) depends on a lipid matrix to function as an effective barrier. Squalane contributes to this matrix, helping prevent transepidermal water loss and maintaining hydration levels. This isn't just surface moisturisation - it's actual barrier support.
Emollient action. Squalane fills the spaces between skin cells, smoothing the skin surface and creating a softer, more supple feel. It's lightweight enough to absorb fully yet substantial enough to provide real conditioning.
Carrier function. Squalane is an excellent carrier for lipophilic actives. Fat-soluble ingredients like THD-C (our oil-soluble vitamin C) dissolve readily in squalane and are delivered effectively into skin. This is why we use squalane as the base for our vitamin C serums.
Enhanced penetration. Because squalane mimics the skin's natural lipids, it can enhance the penetration of other actives. Research suggests it helps other skincare ingredients work more effectively by facilitating their delivery into deeper skin layers.
Benefits
Primary Benefits
Squalane provides lightweight, non-greasy hydration that lasts. Unlike heavier oils that sit on the skin surface, squalane absorbs fully while still providing meaningful moisturisation. It's comfortable under makeup, under sunscreen, or as a final layer before bed.
Secondary Benefits
The exceptional tolerability of squalane makes it suitable for even the most sensitive or reactive skin. It's non-comedogenic despite being an oil, so it won't trigger breakouts. The natural antioxidant properties (though mild) provide some protection against oxidative damage.
Skin Concerns Addressed
Squalane helps with dry skin by restoring lipids that naturally decline with age. It supports barrier-compromised skin by contributing to the lipid matrix. For aging skin, it supplements the diminishing squalene production that contributes to dryness and loss of suppleness. It can even benefit oily and acne-prone skin by providing non-comedogenic moisture that doesn't exacerbate breakouts.
Who Benefits Most
Everyone. This isn't marketing hyperbole - squalane genuinely suits virtually all skin types because it's a molecule your skin already produces and recognises.
Dry and dehydrated skin. Squalane directly supplements declining natural squalene production, helping restore moisture and suppleness.
Sensitive and reactive skin. Because squalane is a natural component of human skin, it very rarely causes reactions. It's one of the safest moisturising ingredients available.
Mature skin. Squalene production drops significantly after the twenties. Topical squalane helps compensate for this decline.
Oily and acne-prone skin. Squalane is non-comedogenic and lightweight. It provides necessary moisture without the heaviness that can trigger breakouts. Many people with oily skin find they actually produce less oil when their skin is properly hydrated.
Anyone who dislikes greasy products. Squalane absorbs fully, leaving skin soft but not shiny or slick.
How We Use It
Standalone Product
Pure Olive Squalane Available in: 50ml, 100ml, 200ml refill Source: Sophim, France Use: Face moisturiser, body oil, makeup primer, hair serum, carrier for other actives
Products Using Olive Squalane as Primary Carrier
Sensitive C Serum (10% THD-C in olive squalane)
Sensitive C Serum PLUS (10% THD-C + 0.5% bakuchiol in olive squalane)
Vitamin C 20% High Strength Serum (in olive squalane)
Vitamin C 20% + 1% Bakuchiol High Strength Serum (in olive squalane)
Vitamin C 30% Professional Strength (in olive squalane)
Vitamin C 30% + 1% Bakuchiol Professional Strength (in olive squalane)
Products Containing Olive Squalane
Moisturising Body Oil Key Ingredients: Olive squalane, organic jojoba oil, organic fractionated coconut oil, mixed tocopherols Use: Lightweight body moisturiser
Moisturising Balm for Extra Dry Skin Key Ingredients: Organic jojoba oil, olive squalane, beeswax, mixed tocopherols Use: Rich balm for very dry areas
Blue Tansy Balm Key Ingredients: Olive squalane, blueberry seed oil, organic jojoba oil, jojoba esters, beeswax, THD-C, mixed tocopherols, blue tansy essential oil Use: Nourishing facial balm
BlackSeed & Kunzea Oil for Stressed Skin Ingredients: Olive Squalane, Organic Blackseed Oil (Nigella sativa), Kunzea Essential Oil, Mixed Tocopherols (vitamin E)
SPF15+ | Daily Moisturising Sunscreen Key Ingredients: Zinc oxide, olive squalane, organic jojoba oil, beeswax, jojoba esters, silica, vitamin E Use: Daily mineral sunscreen
Using Olive Squalane
As a standalone moisturiser: Apply 3-5 drops to clean skin. Squalane absorbs fully, you can apply makeup immediately after.
As a mixing medium: Add a few drops of pure squalane to your foundation for a dewier finish, or mix with other facial oils to modify their texture.
As a sealing layer: Apply over water-based serums to lock in hydration without heaviness.
For hair: Apply a few drops to damp or dry hair for shine and frizz control.
A Note on Texture
Pure olive squalane has a characteristic "silky" texture that's lighter than most plant oils but more substantial than dry oils. It absorbs fully within a minute or two, leaving skin soft but not shiny.
If you've used sugarcane squalane before and found olive squalane feels different - you're not imagining it. Despite being the same molecule (C₃₀H₆₂), the trace compounds that survive the extraction process differ between sources. Olive squalane tends to feel more emollient and nourishing, while sugarcane squalane can feel drier and less substantial.
Usage Guidelines
Daily Use
Squalane is gentle enough for twice-daily use. In the morning, apply after serums and before sunscreen - it absorbs quickly and won't interfere with sun protection. In the evening, use as a final moisturising step or mixed with other treatments.
Application Amount
Start with 3-5 drops for face. Squalane spreads easily, so a little goes a long way.
Layering
Apply squalane after water-based products but before sunscreen or makeup. It layers beautifully with virtually all other skincare ingredients.
Storage
Store in a cool, dark place. Squalane is stable and doesn't require refrigeration. Shelf life is typically 2+ years.
Contraindications and Cautions
Extremely well-tolerated. Squalane is one of the safest and most universally tolerated skincare ingredients. Reactions are very rare.
Patch test if concerned. If you have extremely sensitive or reactive skin, a patch test is never a bad idea, even with gentle ingredients.
Quality matters. Not all squalane is equal. Lower-quality squalane may contain impurities or be derived from shark sources. We source exclusively from Sophim in France.
Research and Evidence
Squalane's moisturising efficacy has been demonstrated in clinical studies, showing significant improvements in skin hydration and barrier function. Its biocompatibility is well-documented - the molecule is naturally present in human sebum, making allergic reactions extremely rare.
Penetration enhancement studies confirm that squalane can improve the delivery of other actives into skin, supporting its use as a carrier oil for vitamins and other lipophilic ingredients.
The superiority of plant-derived squalane over shark-derived has been established both ethically and practically, with plant sources offering consistent quality without environmental harm.
Frequently Asked Questions
What's the difference between olive squalane and sugarcane squalane? Both are chemically the same molecule (C₃₀H₆₂), but they're produced differently and feel different on skin. Olive squalane is extracted from olive oil byproducts; sugarcane squalane is produced through biofermentation with GMO yeast. Many users (including us) find olive squalane feels more emollient and nourishing, while sugarcane squalane feels "drier." We choose olive for its skin feel and sustainable sourcing from agricultural waste.
Is your squalane from sharks? Absolutely not. We use exclusively plant-derived squalane from Sophim in France, extracted from olive oil production byproducts. Shark-derived squalane is unethical and unnecessary.
Will squalane clog my pores? No. Squalane is non-comedogenic despite being an oil. Because it mimics your skin's natural sebum, it integrates into your lipid structure rather than blocking pores.
Can I use squalane if I have oily skin? Yes. Squalane is lightweight and non-comedogenic. Properly hydrated skin often produces less excess oil, so squalane can actually help balance oily complexions.
What's the difference between squalane and squalene? Squalene is the natural molecule found in human sebum and plant sources - but it's unstable and oxidises quickly. Squalane is hydrogenated squalene - the same molecule with added hydrogen atoms for stability. Both work the same way on skin, but squalane is practical for skincare products.
Why use squalane instead of other oils? Squalane's unique advantage is its bioidentical nature - it's a molecule your skin already produces. This means exceptional tolerability, seamless absorption and genuine barrier support rather than just surface occlusion.
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