Copper Peptides GHK-Cu

Copper Peptides

Copper peptides are small protein fragments bound to copper ions. The most researched is GHK-Cu, a naturally occurring peptide that declines significantly with age. Studies have examined its role in collagen synthesis, wound healing and gene expression.

We use GHK-Cu in our facial serum and AHK-Cu (a synthetic variant designed for hair follicles) in our scalp serum.

Stunning blue coloured copper peptides displayed in a clear, glass bottle

Quick Reference

INCI Names: Copper Tripeptide-1 (GHK-Cu), Copper Tripeptide-3 (AHK-Cu)
Common Names: Copper peptides, blue copper peptide, GHK-Cu, AHK-Cu
Category: Peptide, signal peptide
Source: GHK-Cu occurs naturally in human plasma; AHK-Cu is synthetic
Nubeean Concentrations: 0.5-1% in both facial and scalp serums
Carrier System: Aqueous serum base with MSM for absorption support
Skin Types Suited To: Most skin types, particularly mature skin
Cautions: Copper peptides are very sensitive to heat, light and oxygen. When they change colour from blue to green/brown, the copper peptides are no longer active. Discontinue if irritation occurs. Avoid use with strong acids (AHAs, vitamin C at low pH).

What It Is

Copper peptides are short chains of amino acids bound to a copper ion. The most extensively studied is GHK-Cu (glycyl-L-histidyl-L-lysine copper), a tripeptide first isolated in 1973 by American biochemist Dr Loren Pickart. While researching why young blood had a rejuvenating effect on older liver tissue, Pickart identified this small copper-binding peptide as the responsible factor.

GHK-Cu occurs naturally in human plasma, saliva and urine. What makes it particularly interesting is that levels decline significantly with age—from approximately 200 ng/mL at age 20 to around 80 ng/mL by age 60. This decline coincides with the skin's reduced capacity for repair and regeneration.

A related peptide, AHK-Cu (alanine-histidine-lysine copper), is synthetic rather than naturally occurring. It was specifically engineered for hair follicle applications and has shown promise in research examining hair growth cycles.

How It Works

Gene expression. Research using the Broad Institute's Connectivity Map found that GHK-Cu influences the expression of over 4,000 human genes—roughly 31% of the genome. It appears to upregulate genes associated with repair processes while downregulating those linked to inflammation.

Extracellular matrix support. Studies have observed that GHK-Cu stimulates the production of collagen, elastin and glycosaminoglycans (the components that give skin its structure and hydration). It also appears to support the activity of dermal fibroblasts, the cells responsible for producing these structural proteins.

Copper delivery. The peptide acts as a carrier, delivering copper ions to cells. Copper is a cofactor for several enzymes involved in skin health, including lysyl oxidase (important for collagen cross-linking) and superoxide dismutase (an antioxidant enzyme).

Wound healing research. Much of the early research on GHK-Cu focused on wound healing. Studies examined its effects on tissue remodelling, blood vessel formation and the attraction of immune cells to injury sites.

AHK-Cu and hair follicles. Research on AHK-Cu has focused on hair applications. Studies have examined its potential to stimulate the anagen (growth) phase of the hair cycle through Wnt signalling pathways and to support blood flow to follicles through VEGF stimulation.

Benefits

Primary Benefits

The research on GHK-Cu has primarily examined its role in supporting the skin's natural repair processes and maintaining the extracellular matrix. Studies have looked at collagen and elastin synthesis, fibroblast activity and the skin's response to damage. For AHK-Cu, research has focused on follicle stimulation and supporting the hair growth cycle.

Secondary Benefits

Copper peptides have been studied for their antioxidant properties, particularly through supporting the activity of superoxide dismutase. Research has also examined anti-inflammatory effects, which may explain why copper peptide products are often well-tolerated even by those with reactive skin.

Skin Concerns Addressed

Based on the available research, copper peptides are most commonly used by those interested in:

supporting mature skin
improving the appearance of fine lines and skin texture
supporting skin recovery
reversing and preventing further visible sun damage

AHK-Cu is specifically used by those seeking to support scalp health and hair vitality.

Why We Offer Two Strengths

Because GHK-Cu stimulates both the production and breakdown of dermal proteins, starting with too high a concentration can temporarily tip the balance toward breakdown. The result? Skin that looks loose or saggy until regeneration catches up. This isn't damage – it's just the remodelling process moving faster than rebuilding. But it's uncomfortable and unnecessary.

0.5% GHK-Cu is our entry-level strength. It's gentle enough for daily use from the start and suitable for those new to copper peptides, those with sensitive skin, or as a long-term maintenance strength. Many people find this concentration effective and never need to increase.

1% GHK-Cu is our standard strength, aligned with concentrations used in research studies. We recommend this for those who have already adjusted to copper peptides or experienced users. Even at this strength, starting with 2-3 applications per week and building to daily use is wise.

The research suggests that GHK-Cu is effective at remarkably low concentrations – higher isn't always better. Dr Pickart's own product range spans from 0.3% to 3%, with many users finding excellent results at the lower end.

Formulation Matters

Copper peptides are notoriously temperamental ingredients. They are sensitive to light, oxygen and pH, which is why many commercial copper peptide products lose their potency before customers even open them.

pH sensitivity. GHK-Cu is most stable at pH 5.5–6. Formulations that are too acidic will degrade the peptide. This is why copper peptides should not be used alongside strong acids like glycolic acid or low-pH vitamin C serums—the combination can destabilise the peptide and potentially cause skin irritation.

Oxidation. The characteristic blue colour of copper peptide solutions comes from the copper ion in its active state. When the peptide oxidises, this colour shifts toward brown or green, indicating degradation. Packaging matters enormously—clear bottles exposed to light will accelerate this process.

Our approach. We formulate our copper peptide serums in small batches and package them in Miron violet glass, which filters visible light while allowing beneficial violet and UV-A wavelengths through. We recommend refrigeration after opening, especially during summer months and provide a 12-month use-by window. At minimum, store your copper peptides somewhere cool and dark. The blue colour serves as your freshness indicator—if it shifts toward brown or green, the peptide has degraded.

Who Benefits Most

Mature skin. Given that natural GHK-Cu levels decline with age, those with mature skin are often most interested in topical copper peptide products. The research on collagen and elastin synthesis is particularly relevant here.

Those focused on skin texture. Research has examined copper peptides' role in extracellular matrix remodelling, which may be of interest to those concerned with skin texture and firmness.

Post-procedure skin. Some practitioners recommend copper peptides following cosmetic procedures, though you should always follow your provider's specific advice.

Sensitive skin (with caution). The anti-inflammatory properties observed in research suggest copper peptides may be tolerated by those with reactive skin. However, as with any active ingredient, patch testing is advisable.

Those experiencing hair changes (AHK-Cu). Our scalp serum with AHK-Cu is formulated for those seeking to support scalp health and hair vitality.

How We Use It

Products Containing GHK-Cu Copper Peptides

Copper Peptide | Skin Serum is available in two strengths:

0.5% GHK-Cu (30ml, AU$52) – Entry level, suitable for daily use from the start. Recommended for those new to copper peptides or with sensitive skin.

1% GHK-Cu (30ml, AU$59) – Standard strength for those who have adjusted to copper peptides. Start 2-3 times per week, build to daily.

Both contain sodium hyaluronate, MSM and trehalose in a Miron glass bottle with serum pump.

Using Our Copper Peptide Products

Both products are designed for evening use. Apply the facial serum to clean skin before any oils or moisturisers. The scalp serum should be sprayed directly onto the scalp and massaged in gently. For enhanced absorption, some users follow with a light oil such as olive squalane or our Blue Tansy Serum or Balm, Vitamin C and Vitamin C + Bakuchiol serums based on olive squalane.

Copper peptides work best with consistent use over time. Most research studies examining copper peptide effects ran for 8–12 weeks, so patience is warranted.

For the 0.5% strength, daily use is fine from the start. For the 1% strength, begin with every other day or 2-3 times per week for the first two weeks, then build to daily use as your skin adjusts.

A Note on Fragrance

Our copper peptide products are fragrance-free—no added fragrance, no essential oils, no masking scents. The products have a very mild, slightly metallic scent from the copper peptide itself, which dissipates quickly after application. We believe that for an ingredient this expensive and this sensitive to degradation, adding fragrance compounds is an unnecessary risk to stability and skin tolerance.

The Formulation Story

Copper peptides sit in our Clean Skins range – products that let ingredient-savvy customers access high-quality actives in straightforward, low-tox formulations. These are not our most elegant textures or our most complex formulas. They are clean, effective vehicles for ingredients we find genuinely compelling.

GHK-Cu is an expensive, temperamental ingredient. We handle it with extra care: small batches mixed to order, refrigerated storage, Miron glass packaging, and honest three-month shelf lives. We would rather make less product more often than compromise on potency.

Offering two strengths lets customers start gently and increase if they wish – or stay at 0.5% indefinitely if that's working for them. The research suggests lower concentrations can be highly effective, so there's no need to push for higher percentages.

Usage Guidelines

0.5% GHK-Cu (Entry Strength)

Apply one to two pumps to clean, dry skin in the evening. Massage gently until absorbed. Can be used daily from the start. Follow with an occlusive oil or moisturiser if desired.

1% GHK-Cu (Standard Strength)

Apply one to two pumps to clean, dry skin in the evening. For the first two weeks, use every other day or 2-3 times per week. Once your skin has adjusted, build to daily use. Follow with an occlusive oil or moisturiser if desired.

General Guidance

For best results, store in the refrigerator or keep out of direct sunlight in a cool, dark spot. Use within 12 months. Check the colour before each use—the serum should remain blue. Any shift toward brown or green indicates degradation and the product should be replaced.

What to Avoid

Do not use copper peptides at the same time as strong acids (glycolic acid, lactic acid, mandelic acid) or low-pH vitamin C serums. These can destabilise the peptide and may cause irritation. If you use acid exfoliants or vitamin C, apply them in the morning and save copper peptides for evening use.

Our Vitamin C Serums and Vitamin C + 1% Bakuchiol Serums are safe to use with copper peptides as they are oil based (Olive Squalane oil) and not subject to pH issues.

Contraindications and Cautions

Discontinue use if irritation occurs. While copper peptides are generally well-tolerated, individual reactions vary. Patch test before first use if you have sensitive or reactive skin.

Those with Wilson's disease or other copper metabolism disorders should consult their healthcare provider before using copper peptide products.

If you are pregnant or breastfeeding, consult your healthcare provider before introducing new skincare actives.

Avoid contact with eyes. If contact occurs, rinse thoroughly with water.

Research and Evidence

GHK-Cu has been studied since its discovery in 1973, with research published in journals including Nature, the International Journal of Molecular Sciences, and BioMed Research International. Dr Loren Pickart, who discovered the peptide, published extensively on its properties until his death in 2024.

Key areas of research have included wound healing and tissue repair, collagen and elastin synthesis in skin models, gene expression effects (the Connectivity Map studies), antioxidant mechanisms, and hair follicle stimulation (for AHK-Cu).

We find the research compelling—it is why we formulated with this ingredient. However, we present this as background on the science rather than claims for our specific products. Skincare is personal, and individual results vary.

Related: AHK-Cu for Scalp

Looking for copper peptides for hair and scalp? We use a different copper peptide – AHK-Cu (Copper Tripeptide-3) – in our Copper Peptide Scalp Serum. AHK-Cu is a synthetic peptide specifically designed for hair follicle applications. Read more about AHK-Cu →

Frequently Asked Questions

What is GHK-Cu and why does it matter for skin?
GHK-Cu (glycyl-L-histidyl-L-lysine copper) is a naturally occurring peptide found in human plasma. Research has examined its role in collagen synthesis, gene expression and wound healing. Plasma levels decline significantly with age, from approximately 200 ng/mL at age 20 to around 80 ng/mL by age 60, which has made it a focus of anti-aging skincare research.

Should I start with 0.5% or 1% GHK-Cu?
If you're new to copper peptides, start with 0.5%. This allows your skin to adjust to the remodelling process without the risk of breakdown outpacing regeneration. Many people find 0.5% effective long-term and never need to increase. If you've used copper peptides before and tolerated them well, you can start with 1% – but still begin with 2-3 applications per week rather than daily.

Why might copper peptides make skin look temporarily loose or baggy?
GHK-Cu stimulates both the production of new collagen and elastin AND the enzymes that break down old proteins. This is normal remodelling. But if you use too much too fast, breakdown can temporarily outpace rebuilding, causing a loose appearance. This resolves once regeneration catches up. Prevent it by starting low and building gradually.

Can I use copper peptides with vitamin C?
It depends on the form of vitamin C. Low-pH vitamin C serums (L-ascorbic acid) can destabilise copper peptides and should not be used at the same time. Oil-soluble vitamin C (like THD ascorbate) at neutral pH is generally compatible. If in doubt, use vitamin C in the morning and copper peptides in the evening.

Why do copper peptide products best refrigerated?
Copper peptides are sensitive to heat, light and oxygen. Refrigeration slows degradation and helps maintain potency. The blue colour of the serum indicates freshness – if it shifts toward brown or green, the peptide has oxidised and the product should be replaced. All of our copper peptide products are kept refrigerated until they are shipped.

How long before I see results from copper peptides?
Most research studies on copper peptides ran for 8-12 weeks. Skincare actives generally require consistent use over time. We recommend using the product consistently for at least two to three months before evaluating results.