Skip to content
Copper Peptides: The Skincare Ingredient That Probably Shouldn't Be Over-the-Counter
Here's a thought experiment: if GHK-Cu Copper Peptides were discovered today ...not in 1973, but right now... What do you think would happen?
A naturally occurring peptide that influences over 4,000 human genes.
- Stimulates collagen and elastin synthesis
- Accelerates wound healing
- Has demonstrated anti-inflammatory, antioxidant and tissue remodelling effects across decades of research
- Levels in skin decline significantly with age, from 200 ng/mL at 20 to just 80 ng/mL by 60
- Excellent safety profile and effective at low levels of 0.3-0.5% when applied daily to skin
I suspect it wouldn't end up in a $60-70 serum. It would be patented, trialled, and positioned as a prescription therapeutic. We'd be waiting years for access and paying considerably more for the privilege.
Instead, thanks to Dr Loren Pickart's decision to bring copper peptides to market through his company Skin Biology rather than the pharmaceutical route, we can simply... buy them. Mix them into formulations. Apply them to our skin every night. It's a remarkable situation that I don't think the skincare world fully appreciates.
What the Research Actually Shows
GHK-Cu isn't a marketing story – it's a research story. Dr Pickart discovered this peptide in 1973 while investigating why young blood had a rejuvenating effect on older liver tissue. He spent the next five decades publishing research on its properties, and his work has been built upon by universities and research institutions worldwide.
The highlights, for the ingredient nerds among us:
Gene expression. Research using the Broad Institute's Connectivity Map found that GHK-Cu influences the expression of over 4,000 human genes – roughly 31% of the genome. It upregulates genes associated with repair while downregulating those linked to inflammation and tissue breakdown. This isn't superficial; this is cellular-level activity.
Extracellular matrix support. Studies have observed that GHK-Cu stimulates production of collagen, elastin and glycosaminoglycans while supporting fibroblast activity. One clinical study found GHK-Cu improved collagen production in 70% of participants, outperforming both vitamin C cream and retinoic acid.
Wound healing. This was the original focus of GHK-Cu research, and the findings are robust. Accelerated wound contraction, improved angiogenesis, enhanced tissue remodelling. The peptide doesn't just sit on the surface – it participates in repair processes.
Anti-inflammatory effects. GHK-Cu has demonstrated the ability to reduce inflammatory cytokines and calm reactive tissue. This is why it's often well-tolerated even by sensitive skin – the ingredient itself has soothing properties.
Antioxidant mechanisms. GHK-Cu supports superoxide dismutase activity and has been shown to inhibit lipid peroxidation. It doesn't just protect against oxidative stress; it helps the skin protect itself.
The research has been published in journals including Nature, the International Journal of Molecular Sciences, and BioMed Research International. This is peer-reviewed science, not influencer hype.
Why I Formulate with Copper Peptides
I started using Dr Pickart's Skin Biology products in my twenties. At the time, I had couperose-prone skin – that persistent redness and inflammation across the cheeks that makes you feel like you're permanently flushed. Living in Australia with fair, sun-damage-prone skin wasn't helping.
The copper peptides helped stabilise my skin in a way nothing else had. Not dramatically overnight, but steadily, over months of consistent use. The redness calmed. The texture improved. My skin became more resilient. I kept using them for years – through my thirties, into my forties – and I credit them with a significant part of why my skin has held up despite decades of Queensland sun exposure.
What struck me about Dr Pickart's formulations was their simplicity. Water, glycerin, the peptide, gentle preservation, a few supporting ingredients. No unnecessary fillers, no fragrance, no long lists of ingredients that exist purely for label appeal. The formulations were elegant because they respected the active ingredient and didn't clutter it with distractions.
That philosophy shaped how I approach formulation now.
Our Copper Peptide Serums
When I decided to formulate copper peptide products for Nubeean, I wanted to honour that simplicity while addressing what I'd learned about these temperamental ingredients over years of use.
Copper peptides are fragile. They're sensitive to light, oxygen, heat and pH. They oxidise and degrade if you don't handle them properly. The beautiful blue colour that indicates active peptide can shift to brown or green surprisingly quickly in poor conditions. Many commercial copper peptide products have likely degraded before customers even open them.
Our approach: small batches mixed to order. Miron violet glass packaging that filters damaging light wavelengths. Refrigerated storage. Honest three-month shelf lives. We'd rather make less product more often than compromise on potency.
The formulations themselves are minimal. Our copper peptides are manufactured in the US, and we've built a base that supports rather than competes with them: MSM for absorption support and keratin synthesis, trehalose for cellular protection, allantoin for soothing, high molecular weight hyaluronic acid for the facial serum's texture. No fragrance, no essential oils, no emulsifiers, no ingredients that don't serve a purpose.
I think we've created something even cleaner than the formulations that inspired me – not because Dr Pickart got it wrong, but because formulating for a small Australian audience lets us make choices that larger companies can't. We can require refrigeration. We can accept shorter shelf lives. We can print labels in-house for tiny batches.
Two Peptides, Two Products
We use different copper peptides for skin and scalp because the research supports this approach.
Copper Peptide | Skin features GHK-Cu (Copper Tripeptide-1) – the original peptide Dr Pickart discovered, naturally occurring in human plasma, extensively researched for skin regeneration. Available in two strengths: 0.5% for those new to copper peptides or with sensitive skin and 1% for experienced users. The two-strength approach matters because GHK-Cu stimulates both building and breakdown of dermal proteins – start too high and breakdown can temporarily outpace regeneration.
Copper Peptide | Scalp features AHK-Cu (Copper Tripeptide-3) – a synthetic peptide specifically designed for hair follicle applications. Research has examined its potential to stimulate the anagen (growth) phase of the hair cycle and support scalp health. 1% concentration.
Both are part of our Clean Skins range – straightforward formulations for ingredient-savvy customers who want quality actives without unnecessary additives. These aren't our most elegant textures. They're clean, effective vehicles for ingredients we find genuinely compelling.
Adding Copper Peptides to Your Routine
For skin, use in the evening. Copper peptides and vitamin water soluble vitamin C (particularly low-pH L-ascorbic acid) don't play well together – We've solved that problem, using a unique oil based vitamin C serum using oil-soluble vitamin C (tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate). Being oil based, pH is not an issue, allowing you to use vitamin C alongside copper peptides to nourish, calm and boost your skin in the evening.
Apply to clean skin, follow with an occlusive, moisturising oil if your skin is dry or badly sun damaged. We love olive squalane. Consistency matters more than quantity; most research studies ran for 8-12 weeks.
For scalp, also evening. Spray onto scalp, massage gently, leave overnight. Hair growth is slow – commit to 3-6 months of consistent use before evaluating results.
Both products should be kept in a cool, dark environment and never left in direct sunlight. In very hot environments we recommend keeping your copper peptide serum in the fridge. Check the colour before each use – blue means active, brown or green means degraded.
The Bottom Line
Copper peptides are one of the most researched, most evidence-backed active ingredients available in over-the-counter skincare. They're also one of the most underappreciated – probably because they've been around since the 1980s and lack the novelty factor that drives social media trends.
For those of us who care more about research than hype, that's actually ideal. We get access to a genuinely effective ingredient without paying the premium that comes with trendiness. We can incorporate it into our routines knowing that the science is solid, the safety profile is excellent, and the mechanisms of action are well understood.
If you haven't tried copper peptides yet, I'd encourage you to. Start with 0.5%, be consistent, give it time. Your skin already knows what to do with GHK-Cu – it's been using it since you were born. You're just topping up what age has depleted.
And take a moment to appreciate that we can do this at all. Somewhere in an alternate timeline, GHK-Cu is a prescription-only therapeutic with a three-year waiting list. In this timeline, it's a serum you can order online and have in your fridge by next week.
We're lucky.
—
Our copper peptide serums are formulated by a naturopath and nutritionist, Australian made in small batches, and use only ingredients that serve the skin. No fragrance, no fillers, no compromise.
Australian made | Small batch | Clean formulation | Fragrance-free